IT'S no secret that Dublin’s got plenty to offer, and behind the gimmicks and Guinness the city’s a cultural gem waiting to be explored.
As I entered the hub of Ireland’s capital I was struck by a warmth from the friendly faces that I encountered en route to my hotel, despite the unseasonal chill in the air.
After an hour’s flight from London Heathrow, and a 20-30 minute coach transfer from Dublin Airport, I arrived at my destination, too late for dinner, but a little too early for bed. So, under the blanket of a cloudy night sky, I quickly dropped off my bags and ventured out.
As a Dublin debutant, I was lucky enough to be welcomed by a friend who lives across the city. After a whistle-stop evening tour of Dublin’s highlights in her car, we headed to the Grand Canal Dock, a serene setting, boasting numerous restaurants along the waterfront.
It’s worth visiting the docklands again during the day to see the Famine Memorial, board the Sea Safari tour of Dublin Bay or one of the River Liffey Cruises.
The only voyage we decided to embark on that evening was one that took us into The Ferryman pub close to the quay. With wooden shelves adorning the walls, it gave it the feeling of an old library, but the spacious, two-tiered floor setting made for a bustling and vibrant atmosphere.
But an early morning start for me meant that it was eventually time to hail a cab and head to my base for the night.
Located north of the river, The Castle Hotel, on Gardiner Row/Great Denmark Street, provided a comfortable two-night stay.
The staff at the reception desk were particularly welcoming, and helpful in advising on the best ways to explore the city, and the patterned carpets and numerous couches lining the lobby added to the ‘homely’ vibe.
The Garden of RemembranceBreakfast is served at The Old Music shop restaurant in the hotel, and with a wide array of cereals, fruits and a hot breakfast on offer, I felt suitably refueled. I bundled my street map into my bag with a vague plan of action of how to tackle the city’s tourist trail in a day.
I’d been advised that the city was small enough to discover on foot, so braving the strong winds and impending rain, I set off.
My first port of call was The Garden of Remembrance, which was conveniently located across the road from the hotel, and it’s a stunning site to visit. It’s designed with a central water feature that leads to a sculpture, commemorating those who lost their lives in the cause of Irish freedom, and it offers a tranquil place to reflect and remember.
A five-minute walk further along O’Connell Street will take you to the River Liffey, which runs through the heart of the city.
At this intersection, you can then either walk across O’Connell Bridge and head towards Trinity College, or continue walking along the river until you reach the pedestrian-only Ha’Penny Bridge, the first of its kind constructed to cross the Liffey.
On the other side of the bridge, a cobbled pathway will take you under an archway through Temple Bar, known for its reputation in attracting tourists to its lively nightlife. It’s also known as the cultural quarter, and it’s easy to see why, with huge murals painted on towering walls, and book markets found here.
With the cultural theme running further afield, you’ll find the College Green nearby. Within the plush grounds of Trinity College and between the white stone buildings that house both student accommodation and subject departments, lies one of the highly recommended attractions for visitors to Dublin.
The Book of Kells exhibition, open throughout the week, is housed in the Old Library, which takes you back to the 18th century when you step inside. Inside, you’ll get a chance to view one of Ireland’s greatest cultural treasures, and the world’s most famous medieval manuscript — the 9th century book that documents the four Gospels of the life of Jesus Christ.
Check out the recently opened Whiskey MuseumWithin a minute’s walk from Trinity College, and for a change of scene, why not visit the recently opened Irish Whiskey Museum. The centrally located attraction is accessed by a signposted doorway, it’s not hard to miss.
Jim, one of the tour guides, provided a fascinating insight into the history of Irish whiskey, in an interactive tour that culminated in the highlight — the tasting.
After airing, swishing and hopefully drinking the whiskey, you’ll be handed your very own bite size whiskey glass as proof of your new found tasting skills. And if you’re a connoisseur or fancy sampling the ‘special’ whiskey that you can’t find in your local supermarket, there’s an opportunity to make your purchases at the gift shop.
If by this point you’ve worked up an appetite, The Bank Bar, also located on the College Green, is a stunning setting for lunch. A former home to merchant bankers, the main hall now boasts a stained-glass ceiling, mosaic tiled floors and a delicious menu, including the appetizing seafood chowder.
If you’ve got time, it might be worth popping into the Palace Pub on Fleet Street, a watering hole once frequented by Irish writer Samuel Beckett. Pub manager Liam will tell you tales of how journalists throughout the years would use the venue as a place for editorial meetings, a tradition that, unfortunately, appears to have died out.
After a while of pondering and drawing inspiration, Grafton Street was next on the agenda. Only a couple of hundred yards away, it’s one of Dublin’s main pedestrianised shopping streets, much like a high street that you’ll find in most British cities.
It’s a nice walk past buskers and street artists that eventually leads you to the scenic St Stephen’s Green. Whether you want to wonder through the abundant natural offerings, visit the waterfall and Pulham rockwork, the ornamental lake or the various sculptures throughout the park, it’s a great setting for a picnic.
Another great attraction to tick off your bucket list is Dublin Castle, which has been a historical institution in the city for over 800 years. From the founding of the first Celtic settlement in the 1st century AD, the castle has welcomed every President since the establishment of the State.
En route to the castle, take a detour through St George’s Arcade, where inside you’ll find the family-run Man of Aran fudge stall. With over 20 different flavours, including rum and raisin and cappuccino, the tasty treats, actually produced on the Aran Isalnds, were one of my favourite discoveries during the trip.
The Bank Bar on College Green is a great spot for food and drinkBy now it’s likely that you’ll have exhausted yourself walking, in which case a taxi ride to the Guinness Store House might be the best option to round off an eventful day. Here you can enjoy the rooftop bar, the tales of Ireland’s famous beer and learn to pull a pint in one of the city’s most well-known attractions.
For dinner, the hotel’s Castle Vaults restaurant in its basement is a cosy setting. Live Irish music on Friday and Saturday nights provides an authentic backdrop to a heart-warming and abundant meal, and the vegetable soup, pork loin main and Bailey’s cheesecake went down a treat.
There’s more of Dublin to see and if you have an extra day or two in the city, it’s certainly worth spending half a day visiting Kilmainham Gaol. There are both bus and tram services to get here, and as one of the largest unoccupied prisons in Europe, it’s an intriguing stop on your sight-seeing tour.
There’s a major exhibition taking you through the history of the prison, and you can enjoy the interactive experience with an audio-visual show during the tour.
Alternatively, a day trip to the coastal town of Malahide is a fantastic option. With the summer approaching, and hopefully some warmer months, Malahide Castle, the marina and its sandy beaches are a beautiful way to spend your time.
WHERE TO EAT
The Bank Bar on College Green
20 College Green
Dublin 2
00353 1 677 0677
www.bankoncollegegreen.com
WHERE TO STAY/EAT
The Castle Hotel
Gardiner Row/ Great Denmark Street
Dublin 1
00353 1 874 6949
HOW TO GET HERE
Aer Lingus flies to Dublin from most major cities in Britain, including Birmingham, Manchester, Liverpool and London's Heathrow, Gatwick and City airports.
