Travel

Exploring Italy’s best-kept holiday secret

EVER since tasting gazpacho made with sun-ripened Ischian tomatoes at chef Heinz Beck’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome (a special 10th wedding anniversary treat), I’d been desperate to visit the island that inspired such depth of flavour.

So, when the opportunity arose to explore Ischia, I didn’t hesitate – and brought two of my food-loving daughters along to discover what it truly means to holiday like the Italians do.

One local explained: “When Italians take a break, they skip the glitz of Capri and the crowds of the Amalfi Coast, in favour of Ischia.”

You can see why. Just an hour’s ferry from Naples, this volcanic island has quietly drawn generations of Italian families, lured by its mineral-rich thermal springs, family-run hotels, dramatic coastline and unpretentious charm.

Where to stay

Visitors are spoiled for choice. There’s Forio, home to Spiaggia di Citara – one of Ischia’s most beautiful beaches; Ischia Ponte opposite Castello Aragonese; and picture-perfect Sant’Angelo in the south. We chose to base ourselves in Lacco Ameno – the island’s smallest town – on the northwestern coast.

Enjoy the view of the stunning Castello Aragonese

Our hotel, San Montano Resort & Spa, is a five-star property run by the De Siano family since 2009, shaped by three generations of hospitality. Their grandfather, Arcangelo, helped pioneer Ischia’s post-war development – opening its first supermarket and later expanding into hotels. Today, his children and grandchildren run San Montano, blending warm southern Italian hospitality with a strong sense of place.

Perched just above Lacco Ameno and surrounded by Mediterranean parkland, the resort offers panoramic views over the Bay of Naples, Mount Epomeo, and Vesuvius. With only 65 rooms and suites, it feels exclusive. There are 11 outdoor thermal pools using the island’s natural healing waters (we had fun trying each one), four drinking and dining spots, and plenty of activities for guests.

I made a beeline for its Ocean Blue Spa and booked a 120-minute Sculpting Body Cleanse with therapist Annalise. It was incredible – easily the best treatment I’ve ever had. The spa includes a Finnish sauna, Turkish bath and a signature volcanic mud ritual that pays homage to Ischia’s rich thermal spa culture.

The resort’s staff have an infectious enthusiasm for the island. Expert sommeliers happily shared their wine tips; Antonio, the attentive pool man, made sure our sunbeds had the best view each day; and the concierge encouraged guests to explore beyond the resort.

Plenty of space to relax in San Montano (Pic: Serena Eller)

Though we could easily have whiled away our entire stay poolside, we did venture out. One morning, we took the resort’s shuttle to San Montano beach – a peaceful, sheltered cove – and later walked uphill to Villa Arbusto, once owned by Italian film producer Angelo Rizzoli. In the 1950s, the villa became a magnet for international high society – from politicians to Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, who famously fell in love on Ischia during Cleopatra. Now a museum, it houses ancient artefacts dating to the 8th century BC and memorabilia from Rizzoli’s glamorous heyday.

Another day, we chartered a private boat with Nestori Boats & Yachts to see Ischia from the sea. Our 35-foot Italian cruiser, captained by local Giuseppe Puzella, took us to swim in hot springs, past the Castello Aragonese, and across to neighbouring Procida and its colourful port of La Corricella. Along the way, we passed filming locations from The Talented Mr. Ripley – a highlight for my film-loving daughters – and ended at Il Fungo, the mushroom-shaped rock rising from Lacco Ameno’s harbour.

As we cruised, I asked Giuseppe what makes Ischia so special. “Italians are very picky by nature, so if they choose to holiday somewhere, the hotel, food, wine and service all have to be exceptional.” He wasn’t wrong.

If it’s good enough for the Italians...

At San Montano, breakfasts were a daily delight: freshly squeezed orange juice, warm pastries, ripe fruit, local cheeses, and eggs cooked to order. We looked forward to our lunches at Franco’s, the sea-view terrace restaurant just beneath the pool, serving dishes from the resort’s own kitchen garden – grilled fish, garden salads, pasta and the best pizza, paired with a chilled local wine.

Aperitivos at The Sunset & Piano bar were timed perfectly for sundown, before dinner at La Veranda, the resort’s fine-dining restaurant. Every evening the dishes were exceptional. Our favourites included spaghetto al pomodoro made with a medley of cherry tomatoes and basil (a masterclass in simplicity), lobster panzanella with potatoes and Tropea onion, and perfectly grilled Fassona beef fillet with caramelised leek and truffle.

Dining at The Inda

One night, we dined at Ristorante O’Pignatello, a family-run trattoria in the town which also serves as the resort’s third restaurant. The menu is rooted in traditional Ischian recipes, with an entire section devoted to rabbit. Our highlights included scialatielli “Scarpariello”, prawn linguine, and grilled lobster with tomato salad. We rounded off the meal with a glass of Arancello – a citrus digestif made from organic Ischian orange peel by Distillerie Aragonesi. Softer than limoncello, it was so delicious we bought a bottle to take home.

For our final night, we booked a table at Indaco, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Regina Isabella Hotel. Ischia-born chef Pasquale Palamaro leads the kitchen, and his tasting menu celebrates the island with seasonal produce, herbs and seafood. Our journey began with a pearl served on an oyster shell to awaken the palate, followed by a procession of beautifully plated, inventive dishes, each paired with exceptional wines. It was a dream ending to a holiday that had exceeded every expectation.

Ischia’s beauty lies in its authenticity – a kind of sun-drenched, salt-licked simplicity Italians have quietly treasured for decades.

So, if you’re looking for somewhere to slow down, reset, and enjoy the kind of holiday Italians dream of – Ischia might just be the perfect secret spot. For now.