THE Italians are masters of PR. Take Christianity. The epicentre of Catholicism should undoubtedly be Jerusalem.
Yet the wily Romans have persuaded a billion people worldwide that their city is the heart of the religion — yet nowhere in the Bible is a pope or pontiff mentioned.
But better than that, the Italians have persuaded the world that they’re a free-wheeling sort of people, with a lifestyle epitomised by languor, dreaminess and la dolce vita, which is what we tourists love about the country.
But the locals work very hard at bringing the world this picture of Mediterranean serenity. In actual fact, Italy is a rigidly conformist society — the people are industrious and efficient, but above all wonderful illusionists.
Milan is a prime example of this subterfuge. It has a devil-may-care attitude, is renowned for its arts and architecture, its Formula One and its football — but it has been the international focus of trade, commerce and heavy industry since the Middle Ages.
They’ve also been shopping until you drop here for many centuries. Milan is one of the world’s foremost fashion and design centres, so much so that the word milliner is derived from the name.
Santa Maria delle GrazieAs you sip your morning espresso in cafes once frequented by Verdi and Puccini you’ll probably overhear about the ongoing struggle for international catwalk supremacy in the fashion world.
But Milan is also impressively historic, stuffed full of art treasures, ancient churches and Roman remains. The Lombardy capital boasts Europe’s third largest sports stadium, the San Siro (which just edges Croke Park into fourth position) and of course La Scala Opera House, home to the world’s largest stage.
An impressive record of superlatives — and you don’t get that by sitting in the sun all day sipping wine. That’s the job of the tourist.
THE HOTEL
Grand Hotel et de Milan
Via Manzoni 29
Tel: 00 39 0 2 723 141
www.grandhoteletdemilan.it
For top class digs, it has to be the five-star Grand Hotel et de Milan, right beside La Scala Opera House. For 150 years the Grand has been the choice of celebrities, royals and cardinals.
It boasts sumptuous rooms, attentive staff, free wifi, flat-screen tellies and bunga-bunga sized beds. Not cheap, but considering the experience it’s a reasonable £270 for a double room per night.
THE PAINTING
Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper is arguably Milan’s greatest art treasure. You can find it on the refectory wall of the Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie (Saint Mary of the Graces).
To view one of the most significant paintings in the Christian world it’s best to call ahead and reserve a visiting time. Tel: 00 39 02 467 6111.
THE MUSEUM
The top museum must-see is the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, one of the main repositories of European culture, including much of Leonardo da Vinci’s output.
Named after Ambrose, the patron saint of Milan, it was founded by Cardinal Federico Borromeo, whose agents scoured western Europe, Greece and Syria for swag.
The artwork at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (part of the complex) includes da Vinci’s Portrait of a Musician, Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit and Raphael’s cartoon of The School of Athens. Biblioteca Ambrosiana, Piazza Pio XI, 2. See www.ambrosiana.it for more.
THE CATHEDRAL
Duomo di Milano, Milan Cathedral is not just Milan’s most visible monument, but the fifth largest cathedral in the world. A massive late Gothic church in white marble, it is adorned with hundreds of spires and thousands of statues on its exterior.
At the top of the Duomo, a balcony gives you a 360-degree panorama of the city. In the distance are the Alps, with Mont Blanc an added wow on clear days.
THE MONASTERY
The Abbazia di Chiaravalle on the Via Sant’Arialdo in the south-easterly reaches of the centre, was founded in 1135 by the Cistercians.
During the Renaissance, numerous painters and artists worked in the abbey: their handiwork is still evident throughout the buildings. You enter through a 16th-century tower; to the side there is an oratory dedicated to Saint Bernard which contains a fresco of Christ standing before Pontius Pilate.
Inside the complex are enclosed squares, well-tended gardens and a small, ancient church. To be honest, if I had to choose one place not to miss in Milan, then Abbazia di Chiaravalle would be it. But then again, I’m not much into shopping.
THE STADIUM
Britain may have invented soccer, but it was the Italians who gave it poetry, style and worldwide appeal. The San Siro, one of the most famous stadiums in the world, is home to both AC Milan and Inter Milan.
Guided stadium tours include access to the dressing rooms, hospitality areas and press room. Tours leave every 20 minutes between 10am and 6pm. Bookings are not required, tours cost ?13, or ?7 for access to the museum only.
www.sansiro.net
THE ARIA
The Teatro alla Scala (La Scala Opera House) is quite simply the epicentre of world opera. During April La Scala is presenting Opera Les Troyens by Berlioz. Tickets range in price from €79 to €252.
Opera started up the road in Florence, but almost immediately Milan took the artform to its heart.
www.teatroallascala.org
THE NOSH
Milan has some of the classiest restaurants in Europe, with a long menu of trattorias and osterias tucked down back streets.
For people-watching (immaculately dressed ladies who lunch, rock stars, footballers, fashion designers) Pasticceria Confetteria Cova at Via Monte Napoleone 8 is the top destination.
Savini, inside the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele II, is a Milanese institution. The restaurant overlooks La Scala Opera House. Go for the Milanese scallops served with salad, followed by the osso bucco (cross-cut veal shanks braised with vegetables, white wine and broth) and for dessert, order up the tiramisu.
Al Porto, on Piazzale Antonio Cantore, is one of the city’s most popular restaurants. Situated in the former customs and excise checkpoint, the Al Porto specialises in seafood and is renowned for chowder, smoked salmon and baked bream.
THE SHOPPING
During a stroll down Monte Napoleone you’ll encounter the lavish shop fronts of Gucci, Prado, Ferragamo and Versace. The similarly chic via della Spiga is equally bling-laden.
The main shopping district around Quadrilatero d’Oro offers some of the best designer shopping in Europe.
For those special retail moments the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in the Piazza Duomo, reputed to be the world’s oldest shopping mall, is the mother of all retail arcades: upscale boutiques in a splendid 19th century palace of a mall.
