Travel

Travel writer Michael McDonagh's dog gives the lowdown on travelling to Ireland with his ‘owners’

SOMETIMES travelling is hard for me, as — for reasons I don’t understand — some places like hotels and cafés won’t even let me in. can you imagine — these places didn’t recognise my emotional support human.

But over recent years, going to Ireland has become so much better, and there are now some really lovely places that welcome dogs like me.

The other problem is that since Brexit, my passport no longer works and I now have to have an official Health Certificate to travel.

This involves going to the vet a week before departure to get a worming tablet and have my microchip checked — and it costs £250 each time.

Two hundred and fifty smackers, and you don’t even get a biscuit afterwards. Needless to say, although the authorities were very thorough in 2021, they haven’t checked it at either port since — but it would be too risky not to have it.

I go to Ireland every year with my owners, The Man and The Woman (they quite often just call me The Dog, so I’m returning the compliment) but this year was special as we stayed at a super dog-friendly hotel, the fabulous Liss Ard near Skibbereen.

Saoirse and the spooky robot lawn mower

This was actually named the most dog-friendly hotel in Ireland, well done to them.

I was allowed everywhere, and they even had a sofa for me in our room. There were what The Man calls French doors opening onto our own little garden. The people at the hotel, another Man and Woman made me feel quite at home, as I was free to go anywhere in the beautiful building, including the lounges and excellent restaurant, which was grrrgreat.

On the way to catch the ferry at Holyhead, we always break the journey and stay at the English country house hotel Willington Hall, which has acres of grounds for me to run around in.

This year, the Willington upgraded us to a huge suite with great views over the Cheshire countryside toward the Welsh mountains in the distance.

We then got the Stena ferry to Dublin, and I sleep in the car, which is no problem. By now, I know the boat drill: snooze in the car, wake up in a new place, stretch, sniff, repeat.

Often in Dublin we’ve stayed at the Uppercross Hotel in Rathmines, which is a basic but dog-friendly hotel, before travelling on to Galway.

In previous years we’ve stayed at the very grand Glenlo Abbey Hotel, where many American golfers made a fuss of me, thinking I was a poodle. Idiots.

We’ve also stayed at the modern Twelve Hotel near Galway, where they have a special bed and treats for me. Another favourite not far from Galway is the excellent Cregg Castle near the Burren, which I can recommend — it’s great for dogs and has a fine reputation for excellent food (for the non-canine guests).

Saoirse McDonagh is a seasoned traveller

This year, we drove on a bit further and stayed one night at the quirky and very friendly Mustard Seed Country House Hotel near Limerick. There, we had a lovely room with a mezzanine bedroom in a mews off an enclosed courtyard near the hotel gardens. I was a bit discombobulated when I went out onto the lawn for to relieve myself — they had a robot cutting the grass, and it seemed to follow me around as it went up and down all day! I gave a quick bark, but it paid no attention. Up and down it went. Frankly, I didn’t trust it. Sneaky and determined, like a cat. Grrrrr.

According to The Man, the Mustard Seed has won numerous awards, including being voted 'Pet Friendly Hotel of the Year' by some human called Georgina Campbell. But its most recent award was for having the most friendly and welcoming staff. I can say I agree with that.

We then drove on and spent a few wonderful days at the fantastic luxury Liss Ard.

Set in a vast domain covered with cypresses and century-old cedars, this elegant Georgian-style manor has changed ownership in recent years, with the new owners spending millions on refurbishing the buildings in a modern country style to the highest standard.

Originally built near an ancient ring fort in 1853 on an estate of 3,000 acres by the historic O’Donovan family, it was a private residence for many years before being sold and converted into a hotel under various owners. Finally, in 2021, it was sold and completely refurbished to create this amazing location for a relaxing break.

In the grounds is the unique and dramatic Sky Garden, created by American architect James Turrell in 1992 and inspired by the ring fort on the estate. It is a massive grass-lined crater, which you enter through a long stone passage and steps, arriving at a Kilkenny granite plinth where you can lie on your back and observe the Irish sky in tranquil silence. I didn’t actually go on it, but I’m told it’s a remarkable experience, evoking a sense of wonder. But I didn’t like the look of it.

The Sky Garden is hidden in the vast woods I loved running around in, and they go all the way down to a large lake, which also has a nearby gym and sauna — so the hotel really has something for everyone. Even a German shepherd would enjoy it here (they’re always so uptight, aren’t they?)

In the evenings, cool jazz and blues are played from a fine collection of vinyl albums in the bar and lounge. There’s an (ahem) sharing menu of signature dishes, created from local West Cork produce and fresh vegetables from the Liss Ard gardens. I say “ahem” because the ‘sharing’ didn’t include me.

I heard that Bono (Bono, not Boneo the dog food) celebrated his 50th birthday here, and that Nick Cave lived here for six months — and it certainly suited me too, as the very best dog-friendly place I’ve ever stayed in. The new owners made us very welcome, with champagne for guests on arrival, and we would highly recommend Liss Ard for a special treat in Ireland.

A dog’s life can be very enjoyable.