WHEN you hear the word Zurich, does it make you think business trip for wealthy bankers or a winter city break while en route for skiing?
Me, too, but it’s time to rethink. While planning our family break this summer — ruling out traditional European beach options due to unbearable heatwaves — we were seeking a destination to enjoy the great outdoors, for sure lots of swimming and an easy lifestyle with some culture thrown in.
Zurich’s jaw-dropping lake — at the heart of the city — and pristine-clean river that is actually used makes me wonder why this is a well-kept secret. Switzerland’s largest city still only has a population of less than two million in its metropolitan region, meaning its urban beaches and lakeside spots never suffer the same build-up as you get on parts of the Med.
Its standing as a global financial centre made me think I’d need a mortgage to holiday there. Sure, the Swiss franc is strong but after some careful planning, you realise you can tap into what feels like luxury but at doable prices.
Start off by booking the Swiss Travel Pass even before you go so that you don’t need a taxi from the airport; few people realise that the Family Travel Pass means a child aged 6–under 16 travels free on their own railcard; 16s–under 25s get a discounted version, so use the savings.
Lake Zurich Pre-Alpine Express (PIc: Florian Lotter)OLD TOWN, ALL HOURS
The historic old town with its cobbled streets is perfect for exploring on foot, criss-crossing the bridges. You can see the famous Grossmünster and Fraumünster churches (with stained-glass windows by Chagall) while standing at Wasserkirche, literally ‘water church’, which is believed to date back to the 10th century, and went on to house Zurich’s first public library in the 1600s. The library was converted into an art gallery in 1943; yet edging into autumn we had it almost to ourselves, enjoying the views of the St Peter’s Church clock face, said to be the largest church clock face in Europe at 28.5 feet in diameter.
Maybe that’s where the Swiss time-keeping reputation stems from?
Take the trams up and down Bahnhofstrasse, the exclusive shopping street with luxury houses (every Swiss watch brand is there, of course) and its cafes, restaurants and boutiques till you reach the Bahnhofplatz Bridge. Then revive yourself with cocktails at the Ruby Mimi 24-hour bar at Beatenplatz 4. This Art Deco building was Zurich’s first purpose-built movie theatre in the 1930s, and has kept the decor of lush velvet drapes and couches. Sip spicy margaritas, classic negronis or great mocktails such as a non-Bellini with proper peach purée. On the move, picking up picnic bites from the popular supermarket chains Migros, Coop and Denner saves time and your wallet. Aside from the Swiss specialities, they do tasty hot snacks too. Pick up local cheeses and chocolates to take home, though popping into glam chocolate boutiques Läderach and Lindt is a must.
ZURICH-WEST
This former industrialised part of the city has a new buzzy vibe. Stay at the Novotel Zurich City-West at Schiffbaustrasse 13. Their family-friendly offers include kids under 16 staying for free with a paying adult, and even getting a full breakfast buffet thrown in. Think smoked salmon, different Swiss butters and cheeses, and the famous birchermuesli. The pool and 24-hour fitness room keep teens happy, while little ones have a substantial play area in the lobby. The hotel’s trendy location makes for easy access to Viadukt, where under the arches of the old Letten railway are now cool boutiques, beauty bars and coffee shops. Stroll along to reach Freitag Tower, HQ of the signature Freitag bags that you’ll see all across the city — famous for their recycled plastics and long-lasting wear. You also get access to climb to the top of the Tower (that’s the 19 shipping containers stacked up). Be warned there’s no lift, but it was worth it for the views!
Zurich Old Town An overview of Limmat in Zurich Old Town (Pic: SwitzerlandTourism:Nico Schaerer)My teenager said he wanted to rush to Löwenbräu. Hang on, my son, you’re not drinking at 15! He patiently explained that the former brewery building from 1897 had been renovated into a major modern arts centre, lowenbraukunst.ch, housing Kunsthalle Zurich and Museum Haus Konstruktiv, and several others, all of which gave free entrance with the Swiss Travel Pass. The Migros Museum of Contemporary Art in the same building has free entrance permanently. So that made it all right, as did its alluring gift shop.
EASY DAY-TRIPPING
Although we were originally planning to be city-based, getting the Swiss Travel Pass freed us up to enjoy river options plus intercity jaunts. At the beautiful Zürich HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, main station) the Tourist Office gave us maps and insider lowdown. On their recommendation, we hopped on a train that afternoon to the medieval town of St. Gallen, a UNESCO World Heritage site; an hour’s journey with scenic views. And visits to Bern, just over an hour on the intercity SBB trains, are easy as the schedule is so frequent. Technically you could go for a day, but it’s worth more.
Back in Zurich, you could check out the “keys to the old town” tour where you are given old-fashioned keys to architectural spots. Pick these up from the City Hall, leaving your passport as a deposit. Passports are also handy to have on the train trips and museum visits to show proof of age.
SCORE AT THE FIFA MUSEUM
Be the family’s top scorer if you take everyone to the home of the World Cup. Just opposite Enge station, the FIFA Museum is packed with memorabilia through the ages.
There are screenings in the cinema area with mini-movies such as highlights of the last World Cup; very moving. And although FIFA is causing a lot of financial controversy, I was pleased that the usual ticket fee of CHF 26 adult/15 child was waived as our Swiss Pass included free entry. Now that’s what I call a good win!
The Ruby Mimi BarZEN IN ZURICH
The pioneer of modern architecture, Le Corbusier’s work is famous around the world but it’s here in Zurich that the French-Swiss architect has his small but perfectly formed glass and steel legacy. This colourful home is a museum showing his plans, with a film area and space for visitors to quietly do their own art. As a summertime destination (open from April–end of November), sit on the rooftop as you gaze at the lake views. Thursday evenings it’s open till late; from 5pm there is free entrance to all.
From there, you’re a hop away from the Chinagarten (literally Chinese Garden) which is tucked away in Blatterwiese Park, also where the open-air Allianz Cinema screenings are held during summer evenings.
This mini ‘temple’ garden was created by Zurich’s sister city, Kunming, as a thank-you for Swiss technical expertise with their water supply. It’s free to enter plus a great reminder of the public drinking water fountains throughout the city. Take your refillable water bottle and top up everywhere from museums, parks and historic squares.
The water is just so clean — like everything else in the city. What I hadn’t banked on was just how much else Zurich could offer. Rather like its lake, it certainly has hidden depths.
Factbox
Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited travel across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams in around 90 towns and cities.
It includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums. Prices start from £254 for a three-day second-class ticket.
Novotel Zurich City-West: Superior family rooms start from CHF 159.
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