"YOU need to dance with the snow,” explained my Italian ski guide.
I can hardly turn on the snow, let alone dance on it. My confidence vanished after an accident three years ago, but now it was time to find it again in the beautiful Italian ski resort of Courmayeur.
The timing was perfect: spring sunshine in early March and perfectly pisted snow. After effective early-season snowmaking and significant snowfall in February, the slopes were in excellent shape. It helps, too, that the resort is sheltered by Mont Blanc. If you look at a map, this is the heart of the Alps.
Courmayeur is the kind of treasure I’d prefer to keep hidden, but this gem is too good not to share.
From the moment we met at the hotel, I gave our guide Giovanni strict instructions: no icy runs and an early stop for coffee with a view. He reassured me the conditions were perfect and promised my friend and me the full mountain experience. With what seemed like eyes in the back of his helmet, he confiscated my poles and started singing — and dancing! It turns out wide, empty slopes and a serenading Italian were far more invigorating than a caffeine hit.
La ChaumiereItaly has been back in the spotlight recently with the last Winter Olympics a few miles away in Cortina. Alessandra Borre, from Courmayeur Tourism, says: “Although we are far too small to host the Olympics, we are pleased that our neighbour Cortina has enjoyed its moment in the sun.”
Courmayeur holds its own charm. “We are open to everyone,” Alessandra says, thanks to its proximity to Geneva airport. Although Chamonix in France normally dominates as a popular weekend ski destination, Alessandra says: “We share Mont Blanc with Chamonix, but that’s where the comparisons end.” Both have a transfer time of 90 minutes, but Courmayeur is quieter and has a vast choice of activities for a non-skier: winter walking trails, thermal baths and even the highest vineyards in Europe. Cave Mont Blanc is a must-visit: here, they celebrate the extreme conditions which hold the secrets of high-altitude sparkling wine.
While tourists normally associate Italy with cities such as Venice, Florence and Rome, the mountains are an equally compelling draw. “Fifty per cent of Italy is mountains,” Alessandra says, “so it makes the perfect choice for a winter escape.”
The Ikon Pass has opened up Italian slopes to more international visitors. The multi-resort pass allows access to 60 destinations worldwide and most recently added five Italian resorts, including Courmayeur. This means it’s more accessible for Americans. “Canadians come here too; it’s much cheaper for them to fly to Europe than ski at home,” Alessandra explains.
Hotel Gran BaitaItalian heritage is at its proudest when it comes to hotels. Often run by generations of the same family, hotels feel more like a home from home.
We stayed at the Gran Baita Hotel, a short stroll from the village. Offering alpine chic and understated luxury, this really is one of my hidden gems. The deliciously generous breakfast offering fuels a day on the slopes, and the hotel shuttle appears from nowhere exactly when you need it and whisks you to the gondola. At the end of the day, it will return you to the hotel, where it’s all about soothing aching muscles. The outdoor pool is magical. Where the warm water meets the cool mountain air, steam rises up to the mountains. If you look up, you will see silhouettes of snowy peaks and a sky full of stars.
In Italy, eating is an activity in itself. A long lunch — or long aperitivo, as Alessandra calls it — is an essential part of alpine life. You are spoilt for choice on the mountains, but La Chaumière stands out. It not only has mouthwatering pasta but arguably the best views. From here, the Aosta Valley stretches out in front of you for miles. It is simply breathtaking.
The rhythm in Courmayeur is not about racing down mountains and chasing the kilometres. It’s about the quiet joy of slowing down and connecting with the mountains. But don’t forget to leave some energy for dancing.
Everything from irishpost.com and the print edition is available on the Irish Post App — plus more! Download it for Android or Apple IOS devices today.
See More: Courmayeur, Holiday, Italy, Ski
