THE sound was nothing like I had ever heard before.
No one else in my group had either. We were listening to the Sea Organ, an architectural sound art installation in Zadar, Croatia.
The experimental musical instrument plays melodic music via sea waves and tubes located beneath a set of large marble steps. The sound depends on the sea.
This was the third day of my Viking Ocean Cruises’ “Empires of the Mediterranean.” My travels were taking me to five countries and eight ports in ten days. The adventure began in Chioggia, a charming fishing village located south of Venice.
And, I must say, so far, so good!
It was autumn. There was a chill in the air, and I was looking forward to visiting the historic areas in each port, taking advantage of the smaller autumn crowds.
I arrived a day early — an excellent idea when cruising in case a flight is delayed — and stayed at Hotel Grande Italia.
The hotel, a landmark in the community since 1914, is located in a beautiful area. It features a stunning view of Piazza Vigo and the Venetian Lagoon.
On the morning of embarkation, the hotel’s shuttle transported me, my daughter, and other cruise guests the short distance to Viking Saturn, the gateway to a relaxing and fascinating adventure.
I awoke on the first full day aboard ship in Koper, Slovenia, to room service breakfast and my first included shore excursion.
The Parthenon in AthensMy local guide spoke perfect English and offered insight into Koper’s interesting history. Viking offers an included tour every day. There are also optional tours available for a fee.
Piran, Slovenia
We walked off the ship and into another time. As one of Slovenia’s oldest towns, Piran dates back to the Illyrian Histri tribes. They were farmers, hunters, and fishermen. Then came the Romans.
After the First World War, Piran became part of Italy until the end of the Second World War.
In 1947, Piran was ceded to Yugoslavia and later became part of independent Slovenia in 1991.
With cobblestones underfoot and a thunderous-looking sky overhead, we continued into the old city.
Among the many treasures we discovered was Tartini Square, the city’s largest and main town square. It was named after the violinist and Renaissance composer Giuseppe Tartini, for whom a monument was erected in 1896.
Piran is like an open-air museum of red-roofed buildings and medieval charm. Beautiful architecture and narrow, winding streets create a surreal sense of time travel.
Back on the ship, we continued exploring our options, starting with lunch. Would it be the World Cafe, Pool Grill or Mamsen’s, featuring Norwegian specialities? We opted for Mamsen’s, each enjoying pea soup and a waffle with fruit and cheese.
In the afternoon, there were special lectures by excellent historians and port talks describing the excursions and facts about the next day’s destination. There was also Afternoon Tea in the Wintergarden. Tiny sandwiches, pastries and scones were served with tea, and there were dozens of varieties to choose from.
There were several options for dinner, including the speciality restaurants — The Chef’s Table and Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant. There was no additional charge for the speciality restaurants, but reservations were necessary. Add to this The Restaurant and the World Cafe.
There were two Croatian ports: the aforementioned Zadar and Dubrovnik.
A monk feeds pigeons in a quiet corner of DubrovnikDubrovnik offers a fun journey back to 12th-century Europe. The Old Town is completely surrounded by a medieval wall. Our guide led us past centuries-old stone houses, the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery and the Apothecary, the world’s oldest working pharmacy.
Also of interest are the Game of Thrones filming locations. Our guide mentioned a few, but if this interests you, do your research before you cruise. Viking offers several excursions, but you can also explore on your own, bearing in mind the time you need to be back on board before the ship sails to another port.
Montenegro
Kotor is located between grey mountains and the sea. In the distance, I could see a small church perched on the mountainside. This city, with its red-roofed buildings, enchanted me even before I set foot in Montenegro’s coastal jewel.
Our guide, a young man born and raised in the city, led us through the main gate of Kotor Old Town as he narrated the city’s 2,000-year history. First, the town was ruled by the Illyrians in the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC. Others believe the Romans founded Kotor in 168 BC and ruled until AD 476.
Yes, that was only the beginning, but it was hard to keep up with his account of all the countries that had conquered and ruled the port — too many to list.
My first impression of the city proved correct. The medieval palaces, churches, narrow streets, squares and markets were enchanting, offering a dreamlike journey into the past.
Back on the ship, I stayed on my stateroom balcony until the city disappeared from view as we sailed away. It is an enchanting place, and the guide helped paint a vivid picture of its history.
The last country we explored was Greece: Corfu, Olympia and Athens.
My daughter and I, both interested in Greek antiquities and artefacts, opted for the optional tour, “A Journey Through Corfu’s Past.”
Our guide was well-versed in everything we saw, from an archaic funerary lion of Menekratis from the late 7th century BC to the huge Gorgon pediment of the Artemis Temple, excavated in Paleopolis at the beginning of the 20th century.
The tour continued to the 14th-century Venetian Old Fortress. Everything felt elegant, with statues, impressive buildings and a maze of winding streets lined with shops and historic buildings.
Olympia was a favourite with Olivia and me. Fortunately, we had an excellent tour guide who brought the ancient Olympics vividly to life.
She created a narrative from what otherwise might have appeared to be ruins. I could imagine what it was like when the Olympic Park was established in 776 BC.
Old Town Corfu features winding streets lines with shops and historic buildingsHere stood the Temple of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and once home to a gold-and-ivory statue of the Greek god, along with the Temple of Hera and the circular Philippeion.
The stadium was the largest of its day, with a capacity of 45,000 spectators.
After our tour, we opted to visit the Olympia Archaeological Museum, home to a remarkable collection including the stone head of Hera. Some of the world’s most valuable works of ancient Greek art are on display there, many dating back thousands of years.
We had one unexpected sea day when wind and waves prevented local tenders from ferrying passengers to Santorini, with its whitewashed houses clinging to the island’s hillsides. Almost as soon as the announcement was made, the cruise director began listing the many activities the crew had organised to entertain disappointed passengers.
All too soon, it was the day before disembarkation — a day spent in Athens.
The included tour did not feature the Acropolis, so we opted for an optional excursion that included the Parthenon and a stroll through the cobbled streets of the Plaka district.
The Acropolis of Athens is dedicated to the city’s patron goddess, Athena. Its existing buildings were primarily constructed in the second half of the 5th century BC. The complex is perhaps the best-known of the ancient acropolises, which were central defensive districts in ancient Greek cities, usually located on the highest ground.
The acropolises were home to a city’s chief municipal and religious buildings. The Parthenon is the crowning jewel of the Acropolis of Athens.
We climbed the steps to the Parthenon and took in its grandeur. It was almost the end of our cruise, and we would return home with memories, photographs and souvenirs to preserve this moment — this cruise — forever.
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